Author: Jürgen Linnenbürger

Plenty of sun and fantastic golf courses 

The sun shines on more than 300 days in the southern Spanish province of Andalucia. This makes it Spain’s leader among the regions with the most hours of sunshine, ahead of the Canary Islands and the Balearic Islands. Because of its more than 70 golf courses, this stretch of coast is also known as the Costa del Golf.

Residence at the highest level

Sotogrande is the largest privately owned residential complex in Andalusia. It is located in the municipality of San Roque in Cadiz and covers an area of 20 square kilometres from the Mediterranean Sea 25 km east of Gibraltar.

This year it celebrates its 60th anniversary. As one of the most prestigious residential destinations in Europe, it offers a unique lifestyle as well as a luxurious living experience. Over time, Sotogrande has retained its rich Andalusian culture, creating a charm and understated elegance that contrasts with the fast pace of modern life. At the heart is La Reserva Club, who’s gated residential communities offer large green spaces, contemporary design and living, privacy and access to the club’s and Sotogrande’s wide variety of amenities which include a private beach club, world class golf, a fabulous array of culinary options and a world-class international school. 

Trendy lifestyle oasis

Among the region’s newest top hotels is the SO/ Sotogrande Resort which opened in 2021. Sotogrande’s latest five-star hotel is located at the westernmost point of the Costa del Sol. It is owned by a joint venture of Accor SO/Hotels & Resorts Group and Ennismore Fund Management Limited.

Luxury in a refreshing design

Natural colours and extravagant, bold shapes characterise the style of Spanish designer Dolores Cortes. It runs through the entire hotel, whose lightness and playfulness catch the eye as soon as you enter the lobby. These continue throughout the hotel complex and apply to every area of the former Cortijo, a Spanish farmhouse. The official name ‚The Revolutionised Cortijo‘ could not describe the hotel more accurately.

Conviviality, joie de vivre, wellness and enjoyment are written in capital letters and are met with a high-quality offer.

The management attaches particular importance to a sustainable and contemporary Andalusian lifestyle. While the exterior is kept plain white, the shady arcades, well-tended gardens and the harmoniously coordinated colour palette in the interior areas and rooms contribute to a good mood from the very first moment. Everything is spacious and generously laid out.

The hotel is nestled on a slope in the southern Spanish landscape of cork oak forests and pine groves and is hidden from view in complete tranquillity. It offers views of the sea in the distance, the gardens and the adjacent golf course.152 cosy rooms and stylish studios as well as 36 spacious suites are terraced around the pool and restaurant areas. Like my 33-square-metre, modernly furnished SO Comfy King double room, all rooms have their own balcony or terrace. The bed is a dream.

The 2,800 sqm SO/SPA & FITNESS consists of the SO/SPA and the SO/FIT. Here guests can relax in the sauna, exercise on state-of-the-art equipment and be pampered in the health and wellness centre. Two outdoor pools invite you to cool off.  

Families with children are also very welcome at the resort. In the SO/KIDS CLUB, which is open daily, the youngest children feel just as much at home as they do in their own pool.

Pop-up dining concept 

The palate is pampered in four bars and restaurants. I was particularly impressed by the SO-HI Lounge and the Cortijo with its tapas bar and restaurant. They serve tasty snacks, light lunch menus and traditional, typical Andalusian dishes.

The service throughout the hotel is extremely professional, attentive and friendly.

An evening at the nearby restaurant of the Trocadero Sotogrande, a beach club located directly on the beach with a fantastic view of the Rock of Gibraltar, is a must. Alternatively, you can spend the end of the day in the Cancha II restaurant of the nearby Ayala Polo Club, which is one of the world’s leading polo clubs.

From the hotel directly to the golf course

Directly on the hotel grounds is the Almenara Golf Course with 3x 9 holes. The course was designed by British golf course architect Dave Thomas and recently redesigned by legendary Spanish player Manuel  Piñero. It is one of the most extensive on the Costa del Sol and borders Los Alcornocales Natural Park.

I play the Lagos loop, whose ponds dominate the course playfully and visually. Two 9-hole loops are always open. A driving range would be nice, but it is not available yet – though I’m told there are plans. In addition to the water hazards, the course is characterised by its beautifully laid out fairways and the extremely hilly and completely quiet terrain, surrounded by old trees. It is fair, a pleasure to play and allows for a good score.Despite the dryness, the course is in good shape. It is a great introduction and an affordable alternative to the more expensive championship courses in the area. The green fee for hotel guests for nine holes is € 85,- incl. buggy.

Elite courses in the immediate vicinity

The resort offers attractive stay-and-play packages that include playing Spain’s top golf courses nearby. 

La Reserva Club is one of them. It is the youngest but longest of the championship courses in Sotogrande. We play from yellow and have 6,048 metres to cover. It is currently number six in the Spanish ranking.

The very hilly course was established in 2003. It leads uphill and downhill through two idyllic valleys surrounded by old, dense trees. Since 2014, it has hosted tournaments of the European Tour and more recently the ladies’ ARAMCO Team series.

The layout is imposing. The fairways are wide, the greens are large, extremely fast and well protected by large bunkers. Their white sand shines in the sun. Water comes into play on a total of six holes.

The course is an experience, its elevated tees and views are magnificent, its condition without any criticism. It is sportingly demanding, but fair. Good shots are rewarded, bad ones punished.

The imposing clubhouse in the style of a hacienda is enthroned at the highest point of the course behind the 18th green. The single green fee incl. buggy costs from € 180,- depending on the season and course utilisation. 

After the round, we relax at the avant-garde La Reserva Club with its adjoining The Beach, located directly below the clubhouse. An man-made lagoon with a sandy beach for families, a separate garden with a pool for adults only and a lake where only water sports are practised are part of the exceptional offer.

Spain’s ultimate  

The golfing highlight in Sotogrande is the 18 holes of the Real Club Valderrama, founded in 1974. It is the undisputed number one in Spain. The club was awarded the designation ‘Real’ by the Spanish King Juan Carlos in 2014. It has become known through numerous international tournaments, such as the Ryder Cup in 1997, which was held on continental European soil for the first time. 

Characteristic of the extremely challenging, hilly course are the fairways, which are lined with centuries-old, gnarled cork oaks. If you don’t hit them or don’t hit them in the right place, the crowns of the trees often get in the way on the next shot and require a recovery shot.

The greens are mostly small, furiously fast and often slope up towards the back. The thick rough reaches right up to them. This is already a huge challenge for professionals, but almost impossible to master for amateurs. The blades of grass wrap around the balls, which would disappear never to be seen without the trained eyes of the forecaddy.

Precision is required on the course before length. On the par 71 course, I have to cover a length of 5,520 m from the yellow executive tees.Each hole is different and remains in the memory. The highlight for me is the fourth, a par 5 with a steeply rising green that is protected on the side by a water hazard. Many dreams of a good score have been dashed here. The layout is exceptional and the maintenance of the course is impeccable.

The impressive Members Club and the great impressions of the championship course are hard to beat. Non-members can also enjoy the opportunity to play. The green fee for the once in a lifetime experience is € 450,- in high season. In addition, there is the fee for the caddy plus tip. 

Old and New Course

The noble San Roque Club is the finale of our golf trip. It is one of the most exclusive clubs in Europe and is located a good quarter of an hour from the hotel. Of its two 18-hole championship courses, the Old Course is the better known. It was designed by Dave Thomas in 1991. 

It hosted 15 European Tour Qualifying School Finals from 1993-2007 and the Spanish Open in 2005. In recent years, it has been extensively renovated and equipped with a new irrigation system, new grass and bunkers. New practice facilities have been added as a new driving range as well.We play the redesigned Old Course, which is slightly hilly and partly surrounded by imposing villas. The conditions are excellent. Strategic play is required here. It is better to leave the driver in the bag, especially on the various doglegs. A three wood is usually sufficient. The greens are a dream, easy to read and not too fast.

Customer orientation is written in capital letters throughout the club. The friendliness of the staff is striking. The green fee starts at € 180,- in the high season.

If you want to enjoy and golf at the highest level, the region of Sotogrande and SO/ Sotogrande are the place to be. It comes as no surprise that the resort has been nominated for the World Luxury Hotel Awards in 2022 in the categories Luxury Lifestyle Hotel & Luxury New Resort. I am already curious about the result of the vote.With the hotel shuttle, the drive back to the airport in Malaga via the motorway takes less than an hour and Gibraltar airport is just 20 minutes away. Enough time to review the wonderful impressions.

The best of the best

In many rankings it is considered England’s number one. It is currently
ranked 22nd in the world, making it one of the most recognised on the
golfing globe. Tradition and style meet the highest quality and class.
Everything here is special.

Impressive history

Its beginning dates back to 1887, when it was founded by Dr William
Laidlaw Purves as England’s equivalent of St Andrew’s in Scotland. It is beautifully situated, right on Sandwich Bay on the shores of the English Channel.
In 1894, the first Open Championship outside Scotland took place here. In the meantime, this event, which is regarded as one of the world’s most important tournaments, has taken place 15 times at this location. Nowhere has it been held more often outside Scotland. The club last
hosted the tournament in 2021, the 149th time it has been held.
The list of notable professional and amateur competitions held here is
endless.

The board hanging in the clubhouse lists winners from three centuries
now. Darren Clarke in 2011 and Collin Morikawa in 2021 were the last two winners to take possession of the coveted Claret Jug trophy in Kent.
The sensational layout of the course owes much to several notable
architects. In addition to the founder mentioned above, they include
Allister McKenzie and Frank Penning.

Style and Etiquette

The club is a Private Members Club, but opens its doors to non-members on certain days at certain times. Guests are welcome and will receive a warm welcome. However, some rules apply to them, as published on the club’s website.
They may sound antiquated, but from my point of view they fit perfectly with the tradition, to which a lot of importance is still attached. Nothing is modern here, but everything is dignified and noble. Old school golf at its best.
This includes, among other things, that golf clothing may only be worn in the clubhouse until 11.00 am. After that, gentlemen wear a jacket and tie, ladies an appropriate outfit although on the terrace and in the snack bar, golfing outfits are accepted all day.
If gentlemen opt for shorts, they are to be worn with knee-high socks with members often wearing red and green striped club socks. Golf shoes and caps, as well as wet weather golf clothing, are taboo in the clubhouse.
Guests are requested not to change in the car park, but in the locker
rooms, which are furnished with fine wood. Mobile phones are frowned upon on the course and in the clubhouse but fine to use whilst in the car park.

Originally, it was planned to have lunch before our round in the famous dining room of the venerable clubhouse. However, this reservation was cancelled at short notice, as on the day of our visit about 300 members had gathered there to commemorate the life of a recently-deceased former President. So the sacred halls remain inaccessible to us. Instead, we spend some time on the al fresco terrace overlooking beautiful gardens.

More tension is impossible

While changing, I clearly notice how my excitement slowly increases. Then it’s off to the course as my adrenaline level continues to rise and my heart races. I try to block out who has teed off at this spot since 1887 and concentrate on my first tee-shot. St George’s is a 2ball course except on Tuesdays which is when the majority of visitors usually play as 3balls or 4balls.

Unfortunately, the initial sunshine leaves us and the cloud cover increases considerably, but it stays dry and the usual strong wind stays within limits.

Then it starts. I take a deep breath and try to block out everything else. Richard, our caddie, recommends me to play an easy draw. Nothing easier than that.

‘Well done’ Richard comments on my tee shot. Then we race off as
leisurely golfing is not the order of the day here. Anyone who needs more than 3 1/2 hours for the 18 holes as a 2ball is out of place.

Perfect conditions throughout the course

The par 70 course has a length of 7,204 yards from the championship
tees. Unlike most classic links courses, the front nine does not run away from the clubhouse and the back nine back to it. Instead, the holes are laid out in more of a big loop, so you don’t play one hole into the same direction. This means having to readjust to the usual wind on each hole.
On eight of them you play directly along the Channel.

Even the tee boxes stand out because of their perfect condition. Other
clubs would be happy to have greens like this. This impression continues seamlessly on the course. The very undulating fairways are mown extremely short. I hardly dare to hit a divot.
The balls roll without end. They don’t always go where they’re supposed to, but they make length. Even if I think I’ve hit the middle of the fairway, that doesn’t mean the ball will come to rest there, but Richard, who seems to have eagle eyes, helps.

The views of the Channel are magnificent. The naturalness of the course cannot be surpassed. Nothing here has been artificially created, but everything has been left in its original look and feel. The dunes are huge and sometimes severely restrict the view of the fairways. These blind tee shots require confidence and self-assurance.
The dune grass sways in the not too strong wind. After last week’s rain
and the subsequent sunshine, it has literally exploded. It looks more
harmless than it is. Getting out of the dense rough is almost impossible.

The sportiest possible challenge

After only a short time, we realise that the HCP limit of 18.4 is completely justified. If we stay in the game, greens await us that we have not yet experienced in this form. Where and how should the ball come to rest on the partly huge, inverted saucers?

They are ondulated, furiously fast and surrounded by huge run-off areas. Two putts are a great result, but we only manage this if we hit the greens perfectly. And that doesn’t happen too often. The white flags bear the red cross of the patron Saint George. We need his help.
And then there are the bunkers – the regular and the pot bunkers. They are as pristine as you would expect on a true links course.
The highlight is the one at the four. Until recently, it was still supported by 93 railway sleepers on the sides though these were recently removed for safety reasons. This blind tee shot must be played uphill over a dune.

After about 150 metres, lies the deepest and steepest bunker in the entire United Kingdom. Richard tells us that it is also called ‘coffin’: once you are in it, you never get out again! I am the best example, as the photo proves. After three unsuccessful attempts, I buried the score on this hole.

It is the second most difficult hole of the 18 exciting holes, which are all different and have their own names. This one is unsurprisingly called The Himalayas whilst other well known ones are called The Maiden, Sahara and Suez Canal.
Each hole has its own great charm and remains memorable for us. The
front nine should allow for the better score, as the back nine is even more challenging. The lengths are brutal for average HCPers, especially when the wind comes into play. This kicks in on the back nine and makes the last holes a special test for us.

Drinking water is available at various points on the course, even for four-legged friends. Only toilets we look for in vain. Richard thinks we should use mother nature.

After 18 holes we are exhausted: mentally and physically. But richer by an experience that is one of the most extraordinary we have ever had on a golf course. Golf at its purest. This alone counts. The result is absolutely secondary.

We politely thank Richard for his great job, pay him the usual fee of GBP 50,- and give him the well-deserved tip. This was already because of the balls he found again in the deep rough. So our loss was absolutely manageable.
We will keep every moment of this unforgettable day on one of the world’s most impressive golf courses in best memory.
Cologne, June 2022
Juergen Linnenbuerger